[CR Switzerland] Day 09

September 25, 2006
Lugano - San Bernardino Pass - St. Moritz - Bernina Express Optional - St. Moritz

Morning Call: 6.45 * Breakfast call: 7.00 * Baggage Call: 7.15
Departure from Lugano: 8.15

We left Lugano in the rain and wet, weather straight out of a Gothic novel. Everyone marvelled at how incredibly fortunate it had been that the weather had been clear and bright yesterday. The parents and I were not late for the bus this time, and joined the cheerful crowd in the lobby at around 8.00 AM. Am glad to report that absolutely nothing could dampen the spirits of our group - even if one or two couples reported some "unfortunate events" to the Tour Director. Looking at the sky, I spared a thought for those loading our suitcases; the Bellevue did not have a porte cochere over the front drive, and therefore our poor coach driver and the porters had to load our bags in the rain. I thought about the extra weight in my bag (starting weight was about 15kgs, add 2.5kgs chocolate, multiply by 40 pcs of baggage for the group) and winced.

We pulled out to a now familiar rhythm: headcount, good mornings, confirmation that all valuables and significant others were on board, keys returned, admin details for the day. We also left with the hope that sunshine would greet us in St. Moritz - or at least, a cessation of the rain! The road trip was uneventful until we got to the San Bernardino Pass, where we got stuck in the first real traffic jam of the tour. We stopped at a little hotel just after the tunnel, and the promise of hot chocolate and washrooms was worth a little walk in the rain.

Now, as was typical with many a washroom on this tour, one had to descend steep, winding stairs to get to the facilities. For easier access, the doors were left standing open, which, given the long line into the ladies' room, afforded a view to unnerve the modesty-challenged. ::grin:: The soap in this particular washroom was mounted on a steel rod protruding from the wall. It was yellow, and shaped rather like a banana after constant usage. When it came to my turn to wash up, using this soap had the unfortunate effect of dropping my mind straight into the gutter - which in turn led to the suppression of giggles for the duration of the stop each time I remembered it. (I ought to have taken a picture of that soap with my mobile phone and sent it to my husband, that's what I should have done.)

Once we were back on the bus, Elmar thanked us for being so prompt - apparently Ueli wanted to take advantage of the light traffic, and was eager to get the coach on the move. We pulled out just as Sara's bus pulled in, and again there was much waving of hands between both buses. Ueli really showed us what he was made of during this drive, because you could hardly see beyond 200 feet in front of the bus. It tells you a lot about how safe I felt when I say that I was actually trying to look beyond the cloud cover for any breaks, and actually peeping out the window at the sheer drop beside the coach! I have never been the best of travelers on mountain drives; normally I get dizzy, close my eyes, and mutter prayers to Raphael Archangel to just let the drive end safely. But not this time...the silence in the bus was either people (a) catching up on sleep or (b) respectful awe at the way Ueli got our bus around the hairpin curves.

We pulled into St. Moritz around 12.30 PM, still in the rain and wet. A bit of a let-down after all the good weather we'd been having till then, if only because of the views we were missing in section of the mountain country. Elmar recommended lunch before attempting to check-in, which was scheduled at around 1.45 PM, giving those on the Bernina Express optional tour a chance to drop their carry-on bags and freshen up before setting out. Unfortunately, the Hauser Hotel coffee shop was deluged with lunchtime regulars and the early members of our group - packed to the gills, it was!

I led my parents back up to our hotel and sat them down in the lobby while trying to figure out what to do. It was then I spotted a young Japanese couple walking into a restaurant across the street, and had a brainwave. I double-timed it outside, did a quick check to see if the restaurant was open and full, and then waved across the street at my parents, who were watching from the lobby windows.

The Engadiner Restaurant is a place I most heartily recommend to the next batch of people taking this tour. It is small and cosy; I think the proprietors live on top of the restaurant. Furnished in warm woods, and the prices were quite reasonable. Even more important, lunch (barley soup, pork steak and frites) was hot, and served generously, and perfect to take off the chill. Another thing - don't order the cheese fondue unless you're at least a party four people - the pot of bubbling cheese mixture that the proprietor/head server put on the table was *huge*. I know this, because the American couple at the table beside us who ordered it, suddenly had this deer-in-the-headlights expression. :D

Once we were done with lunch, we checked with the front desk at 1.45 and were greeted with the news that the rooms were ready. Picked up the hand-carry bags from behind the front desk, claimed the key, and we found ourselves in a cosy room with a walk-in closet and more wood-based furniture. The overall effect was like being in a ski cabin. Tested the third bed and was greatly relieved to find that the mattress was nice and firm, unlike the previous night's, which had a tendency to sag just beneath my lower back.

But there wasn't any time for a nap - just enough time to settle the suitcases, freshen up, and be down at the lobby by 2.00 sot that we could leave the hotel by 2.20 in order to catch the Bernina Express. By virtue of being one of the last into the carriage, I managed to snag my favorite seat in any form of transport - the jump seat, which meant I had a little corner all to myself.

All in all, it was a wonderful ride through the mountain country - so maybe the cloud and mist hazed up the view, I thought it was a bit like riding through certain parts of the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy. Even with less than bright sunshine, we were still lucky - the clouds would part at just the right times, giving us glimpses of the valleys and peaks and glaciers. One of the best things about this train is that you could pull down the windows and let in the bracing mountain air - and also have clearer pictures when the glaciers were finally sighted through breaks in the haze. There was a part when the train passed by a gorgeous glacier and the framing against my window was just too perfect not to share with all the rest of folks with cameras. This inspired suggestions that I ought to be charging a token fee for the use of the window, since I had to step away from my seat for them to get their shots. All the cameras clicking...we were mountain paparazzi, that's the word for it. Stalking all the best shots of the poor unsuspecting natural wonders!

Elmar regaled folks in the jumpseat area with stories of his life as a TD; a difficult life, and challenging, but it’s obvious he enjoys the job or he wouldn’t have stuck with it for 30 years! Between his stories and jumping up and down to take photos of all the best sights, the trip went very quickly; and at the tour’s end, it was back to Ueli, patiently waiting with the coach at the station. On the way back to the hotel, Elmar reminded us that pre-dinner drinks were going to be served on behalf of the return customers, and everyone was else was invited to join as our guests. Having accompanied my parents on at least three of their six Insight tours, this announcement was a fine thing, though Ma's shyness took over as our names were read out from the list of "veteran travelers". Quite a few of us in this batch - at least eight or ten have traveled with Insight more than three times.

It turned out to be a very social evening. The waiter at the bar, upon discovering that my parents and I were from the Philippines, was happy to announce that he had seen Manila and Cebu, back in 2003. I told him to take the time to come and visit the country again, so much has changed, he'd hardly recognize the old tourist areas! Sue gave everyone heart palpitations by nearly missing a step on the circular stairs on the way up, which made me bundle my parents into the elevator quicktime - I wasn't about to risk anything with Dad's unpredictable vertigo spells, and Ma's tired eyes; it had been quite a long day already!

The dining room was a tight fit, but it only seems to have added to the conviviality. The food was good, and although we called it an early night, I managed to share a few travel yarns with some of the group members after going down to check on the call times for the next day.

Here's hoping that we wake up to better weather tomorrow - or at least, no rain!