[CR Switzerland] Day 13-2

September 29, 2006
Engleberg - Lucerne - Engleberg Open Carriage Optional

The ride was perfection, with just the right mix of sun and cooling air. It really gave us a different perspective on things, to see the landscape slide on by as our horses patiently plodded along the road. People had time to wave to us and call out greetings to Elizabeth and her daughter - we even passed two more of Elizabeth's children out biking with friends. One of the more interesting sights on the ride was a garden filled to the brim with gnomes. All sorts of gnomes - one wondered how the flowers fit in, there were so many of them. There was a school of some sort, with artwork depicting Biblical and mythological figures on its walls, created by the students.

And there were cows! We could hear their bells from a fair distance, and Elizabeth said they were being brought down from the high pastures before the winter started. If we were up early enough, we would be able to hear a chorus of cowbells as the herds were brought down tomorrow, at around 8.00 AM. She said we were fortunate with the weather, as today was the last day of fair skies predicted by the meteorology report. On our way back, we passed close by the cows as they were herded into their new pasture - and got a good laugh watching one of current residents come up in greeting to the newcomers, kicking up its heels as if to invite some play time.

The carriage ride came to an end at the Benedictine monastery at the end of the Engleberg main road. There were many profuse thanks to Elizabeth and her family, who would wait till we finished our monastery tour in order to bring a second batch of the group around. Looking at the huge carved doors, I muttered the Benedictine motto, Ora et Labora (Prayer and Work), remembering that Ma and my goddaughter had both spent part of their education in the care of Benedictine educational institutions. In Ma's case, she had actually been taught by the German Benedictine nuns - very strict, but very efficient, whose profession names were taken from obscure saints.

Now I must say that while the tour was fascinating, it didn't quite match the tour description. As stated on the website: "Horse drawn carriages will take us through the stunning scenery of the Engelberg Valley to the magnificent 12th century Benedictine monastery, where we will enjoy a demonstration of local cheese making, followed by wine tasting." The horse-drawn carriage and stunning scenery part were all that could be desired from such a description. The demonstration of local cheese making and the wine-tasting, however, belonged to *another* monastery - but also a Benedictine one. Although I know that there was a dairy plant or something similar on the premises, but it was in another building, separate from the monastery.

So that was a bit of a let-down, but nothing depressing. :) Still. It would have been nice to taste the Benedictine liqueur, I suppose. Another excuse to come back? :D But the tour, as I said, was fascinating. Having been convent-educated myself, it was a familiar thing to see the saints' names over the various doors; to hear about how the friars celebrated the Liturgy of the Hours - the special prayers at set times that govern the way of life at the monastery; the Benedictine Rule, and how St. Benedict and his twin sister St. Scholastica (patron of one of Manila's oldest educational institutions) established one of the most far-reaching religious orders in the world.

You will have your eyes full of magnificent marquetry, wood inlay and wood carvings in this monastery. The design of the assembly room floor is composed of three separate colored woods, shaped into three-dimensional blocks that seem to shift perspective if you stare at them a bit. There are inlaid trays to marvel at, and we were led into a small conference room whose walls were lined with inlaid panels depicting the virtues and gifts of the Holy Spirit. Fantastic stuff, and all of it the creation of one friar throughout his entire lifetime!

It was good to get back out into the fresh air after the tour was over; Elmar had kindly arranged for the bus to be available for those who didn't feel up to walking down the main road back to the hotel. So we hopped onto it and got ourselves ready for another wonderful home-cooked dinner at the hotel. I guess some folks changed their minds about eating out, because the lovely proprietress had an "Umm-HM" expression when she came out of the kitchen to look over the room. I must say that the kitchen certainly rose to the occasion, because everyone seemed to be both full and happy with the quality of the service. Our server was a wee bit harassed, but a lot of smiling and a lot of reassurance that we were perfectly fine, helped smooth things out for her, I hope.

The pangs of separation twinged as folks began to say their goodbyes, as some of us would be taking the early bus with Elmar, to catch their flights back home, or to onward destinations. There were the usual hugs and handshakes, exchanging of e-mail addresses, promises to send pictures and best wishes for safe travel ahead. Elmar came round the tables for the last time on tour, to remind those leaving on the second bus that the call times had been moved back by about 15 minutes - it seems Sara had some folks on a tighter schedule than we were, and so wanted to be at the airport in good time. We assured him that we would continue to uphold the reputation we had built up under his management, and wished him happy travels.

To counteract the sentimentality that turns me into mush at such times, I complimented the lovely hotel owner/manager on the excellent dinner that the kitchen had managed to turn out. In fact, I was full of praise for the hotel and its service, swearing that I would tell friends and family to have their meals in the Schweizerhof if ever they found themselves in Engleberg. Seeing her happy smile and blush in the face of my enthusiasm managed to chase away whatever blues were threatening to pop up.

I admit it, though - I *am* feeling the post-tour letdown already. But there will be lots to do back home in the wake of the typhoon for it to last for very long after arriving!