September 27, 2006
Interlaken - Jungfraujoch Optional - Trummelbach Falls - Interlaken
Morning call: 6.00 * Breakfast call: 7.00
Departure for Jungfraujoch Optional: 8.00
It was a day at leisure for anyone not taking the Jungfrau optional - otherwise, everyone else had to present themselves at 8.00 AM at the bus, after waking up early yet again. We set off (ten minutes before the time!) under incredible cloud cover, but Elmar assured us that the meteorological report for the peak was sunshine and clear skies, and with a little imagination and a lot of hope, it was possible to believe that the sky was actually clearing as we got to the train station.
At the station, we were bundled into the cogwheel train for the Jungfraujoch. We were scheduled to visit some of the most famous mountains in Europe: aside from the Jungfraujoch (The Virgin/Young Lady), we would see the Eiger (The Ogre) and the Munch (The Monk). Upon discovering the English translations of the names of the mountains, my mind presented me with two plots involving a beautiful princess, an ogre, and a monk. One version was sort of Beauty and the Beast, with the ogre defending the young princess from the lecherous monk (ehem). The alternate version had the virtuous monk defending the princess from the ogre. There was a third version that popped into my head as we were leaving - the ogre, who was adoped by the monk as a baby, kills the princess who's trying to frame the virtuous monk for sexual harassment. All the stories end with the main characters turned into the mountain range, and kept me entertained as we made the ascent into the high country.
At the station, there was a *gorgeous* St. Bernard dog padding obediently by the side of its master. All the mountain paparazzi, yours truly included, promptly proceeded to take the lovely creature's picture as it plunged its feet into the drinking fountain/water trough at the corner of the station - such a beauty!
We changed trains once, at Kleine Scheidigge. It was here that the group finally broke its record for attentive promptness - we nearly missed the train, so caught up were we in the vistas being revealed by the emerging sunlight. We were quick to recover, though, and once piled into our carriage, it was to discover that there were lovely LCD-panel screens displaying a video of our progress, as well as some of the accomplishments associated with the mountains we were visiting. It was beyond interesting to discover that the train would be plunging *into* the heart of the Eiger, climbing through tunnels and emerging into perfect weather.
There were two stops at scenic view points in order to look down at the glacier, and fortunately, there were no near-misses when it came to getting back on the train on time.
Arrive Jungfraujoch: 8.22 AM * Departure from Jungfraujoch: 1.00 PM
Once at the peak, the air was crisp as we walked through the pedestrian tunnel into the main lobby of the Jungfraujoch station. By this time, the sun was out in full splendor, perfect photography and ice exploration weather! Elmar paused beneath the clock to orient us and give us directions for the call time back to the train. Then he brought us through the Ice Plateau so we could walk on the snow outside. At first Ma was wary of getting out on the ice, but with a little coaxing, she managed to stand up with Dad in front of one of the ice-covered peaks.
Afterwards, I left the parents with Helen at the cafeteria and dashed off to catch up with the rest at the Ice Palace. The beauty of the Jungfraujoch is that, since it's got a lot of visitors, the station is more "user-friendly" than that of the Kleine Matterhorn. Most of the mountain is glassed-in terrace levels for those who don't want to venture out into the open. With the weather we were having, though, we were more in danger of getting sunburn than severe chilling.
The Ice Palace here doesn't have rubber matting on the floor, which is a bit spooky. One really needs to think twice about rushing through this section. The ice carvings, however, are lovely. We were very grateful to be practically the first group up on the mountain; while I was trying to catch up with the group, ran into at least three Japanese tour groups in the main lobby!
From the Ice Palace, past the cafeteria and the mini-museum, and then out to the elevator leading up to the Pyramid, the highest point of the mountain. The view deck looked out over the peak of The Munch, and across a sea of clouds. On impulse, I pulled out my mobile phone to try and call my husband, something I promised him I would attempt - just to say that I was calling from the highest point of Switzerland. It took a couple of tries, but eventually I got to hear his voice - and it was all the corny cliches of the telephone ads come to life. The entire platform, I am sure, could hear my voice ringing out in Taglish as I tried to describe the entire tour up to that point and interrogate him about how he was faring. Not that I cared overmuch; it was just too good to hear him again!
Eventually I had to end the call to go back down and through another tunnel onto the glacier. It took a few seconds for my befuddled mind to register that I was actually getting my first feel of fresh snow! It felt like powdered ice, which it actually is. The silence out on the glacier is like a church - all I could hear was the sigh of the wind as it flowed over the mountain peaks. Beautiful!
All in all, the Jungfraujoch is literally a breathtaking mountain, both in terms of beauty and thin air, and that's about as much as I can say about it without actually bringing you there myself!
Lunch was delicious, if somewhat hurried, since I wanted to get my parents up to see the Pyramid and take their pictures before it was time to go. The timings worked perfectly - I had them up and back down again with time to spare for souvenir shopping in the stores just in front of the meeting place. The group was clustered under the clock five minutes before the time, and Elmar declared himself satisfied with the headcount in time for him to shepherd us through the station and onto our train for the descent on the opposite side of the mountain.
The sun smiled on us all the way down to Kleine Scheidigge, where we changed trains for the final stage of the descent. I spotted a water fountain, and cupped my hands for a drink, being thirsty and not having a water bottle. Ye gods, that had to be the sweetest water *ever*! Fresh off the glaciers by the taste of it, cold you could feel reviving your blood cells.
The mountain paparazzi were in full force as the train trundled down the mountainside, the air growing balmier as we reached the lower slopes. Some stations were in pretty towns that made people wish we had all the time in the world to get down and explore them. We passed some trains on their upward climb to the peak; Elmar said those passengers would have barely two hours on the mountain before having to come down again - while we very nearly had the whole morning. So worth the early wakeup call!
Thursday, October 26, 2006
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
[CR Switzerland] Day 10-2
September 26, 2006
St. Moritz - Glacier Express - Interlaken
As promised, the drive to Interlaken through Susten Pass was smooth as silk, despite the inevitable switchbacks. All that exposure to the mountain air had made me sleepy, and once we had passed the Steingletcher (Stein Glacier), I decided to stop fighting the way my eyes were falling shut and slipped into a short nap. It was *that* comfortable a drive, indeed! Woke up just before reaching the outskirts of Interlaken, and perked visibly as we pulled into the city. Saw familiar names - Migros, COOP, Apotheke - as we came down past the West Banhof Station, down the main "hotel strip" and around the East Banhof Station before pulling into the drive of our hotel.
Interlaken, even under cloud cover, is *pretty*! Some of the more modern buildings were renovating, but the hotels retain their air of stately gentility. The Hotel Victoria, like its namesake, is rather queenly in aspect, commanding the best view over the main street. A view that included, to my delight, an open field with cows; their bells were tinkling as they moved about. We spotted Sara's bus in one of the hotels near the Victoria as we found our way to the Belle Rivage - and if the Victoria was a queen, then this hotel was a princess, dominating the end of the road just before the East Banhof Station. The river Aare runs behind it, and it would take a strong person indeed to resist the lure of exploring the grounds (assuming you didn't want to drop into town first).
Elmar highly recommended the dining room of the Hotel Schu for dinner the next night, prompting the Comment of the Day from our Irish Joe: "All things considered, I'd rather have the boot than The Schu..." Which of course had me crying out, "Ah, Joe, don't ever be telling me I just heard that!" along with various other groans at the play on words. Good times!
A word about the Beau Rivage. No, make that several words, because if you've been reading me this far, you know very well I can't stop at just one word. :) It is elegant. It's like somebody's stately home that's been converted into a hotel. There are chocolates on the pillow, a thick fluffy bathrobe and bedroom slippers at the foot of the bed. A bathroom that's lit up like a diamond center. Here's the fun part - the Beau Rivage was the ALTERNATE HOTEL. Sweet! And we were here for two nights! ::insert random squeeing here:: I mean...oh, my goodness. Of all the alternate hotels we got on this trip, this had to be one of the best, if not *the* best *ever*.
So if anyone finds themselves on the second bus for an Insight tour, just keep an open mind and hope for the best. You might end up with surprises like this one! :D
Once we'd settled down, Ma discovered that she'd run out of her multiple vitamins. I volunteered to run down to the Apotheke to buy some, and the walk was just the thing I needed before dinner. Felt good to stretch my legs after all that time sitting in the Glacier Epxress and in the bus; with just about 45 minutes to spare, I made it to the Apotheke in good time. Asked for the pharmacist's recommendation about vitamins for senior citizens, and in the end chose the one with ginseng. With that out of the way, my walk back to the hotel was more leisurely. I had time to hang over the fence of the cow field, and even spend time admiring the koi pond in the miniature Japanese garden not far from the hotel.
With the hotel in sight, I broke into a huge grin at the sight of a Smart car that was a rolling advertisement for Lacoste. It was white, and had the Lacoste alligator on each door, and all sorts of other stuff stenciled onto it. I also spotted a "Mr. Grill" at the very gates of the Beau Rivage - it tickled my sense of humor to see this home-run hamburger joint right in front of a luxury hotel.
Dinner call was at 7.00 PM, but of course our group was down about ten minutes before that. While chatting with the folks, I had half an ear cocked towards the piano bar, playing "Name That Tune" with the melodies I could hear floating through the doors. I have an affinity for music, and even if I haven't touched my piano for a long time, I will sing at the slightest suggestion of a tune in the air. Fortunately, the pianist was playing songs that I recognized - mostly golden oldies, so I entered the dining room in a very good humor indeed.
Dinner itself was delicious. Another convivial evening to cap the day. Tomorrow, according to the call times poster, is the Jungfrau Optional tour. Here's crossing our fingers to clear weather above the timberline!
St. Moritz - Glacier Express - Interlaken
As promised, the drive to Interlaken through Susten Pass was smooth as silk, despite the inevitable switchbacks. All that exposure to the mountain air had made me sleepy, and once we had passed the Steingletcher (Stein Glacier), I decided to stop fighting the way my eyes were falling shut and slipped into a short nap. It was *that* comfortable a drive, indeed! Woke up just before reaching the outskirts of Interlaken, and perked visibly as we pulled into the city. Saw familiar names - Migros, COOP, Apotheke - as we came down past the West Banhof Station, down the main "hotel strip" and around the East Banhof Station before pulling into the drive of our hotel.
Interlaken, even under cloud cover, is *pretty*! Some of the more modern buildings were renovating, but the hotels retain their air of stately gentility. The Hotel Victoria, like its namesake, is rather queenly in aspect, commanding the best view over the main street. A view that included, to my delight, an open field with cows; their bells were tinkling as they moved about. We spotted Sara's bus in one of the hotels near the Victoria as we found our way to the Belle Rivage - and if the Victoria was a queen, then this hotel was a princess, dominating the end of the road just before the East Banhof Station. The river Aare runs behind it, and it would take a strong person indeed to resist the lure of exploring the grounds (assuming you didn't want to drop into town first).
Elmar highly recommended the dining room of the Hotel Schu for dinner the next night, prompting the Comment of the Day from our Irish Joe: "All things considered, I'd rather have the boot than The Schu..." Which of course had me crying out, "Ah, Joe, don't ever be telling me I just heard that!" along with various other groans at the play on words. Good times!
A word about the Beau Rivage. No, make that several words, because if you've been reading me this far, you know very well I can't stop at just one word. :) It is elegant. It's like somebody's stately home that's been converted into a hotel. There are chocolates on the pillow, a thick fluffy bathrobe and bedroom slippers at the foot of the bed. A bathroom that's lit up like a diamond center. Here's the fun part - the Beau Rivage was the ALTERNATE HOTEL. Sweet! And we were here for two nights! ::insert random squeeing here:: I mean...oh, my goodness. Of all the alternate hotels we got on this trip, this had to be one of the best, if not *the* best *ever*.
So if anyone finds themselves on the second bus for an Insight tour, just keep an open mind and hope for the best. You might end up with surprises like this one! :D
Once we'd settled down, Ma discovered that she'd run out of her multiple vitamins. I volunteered to run down to the Apotheke to buy some, and the walk was just the thing I needed before dinner. Felt good to stretch my legs after all that time sitting in the Glacier Epxress and in the bus; with just about 45 minutes to spare, I made it to the Apotheke in good time. Asked for the pharmacist's recommendation about vitamins for senior citizens, and in the end chose the one with ginseng. With that out of the way, my walk back to the hotel was more leisurely. I had time to hang over the fence of the cow field, and even spend time admiring the koi pond in the miniature Japanese garden not far from the hotel.
With the hotel in sight, I broke into a huge grin at the sight of a Smart car that was a rolling advertisement for Lacoste. It was white, and had the Lacoste alligator on each door, and all sorts of other stuff stenciled onto it. I also spotted a "Mr. Grill" at the very gates of the Beau Rivage - it tickled my sense of humor to see this home-run hamburger joint right in front of a luxury hotel.
Dinner call was at 7.00 PM, but of course our group was down about ten minutes before that. While chatting with the folks, I had half an ear cocked towards the piano bar, playing "Name That Tune" with the melodies I could hear floating through the doors. I have an affinity for music, and even if I haven't touched my piano for a long time, I will sing at the slightest suggestion of a tune in the air. Fortunately, the pianist was playing songs that I recognized - mostly golden oldies, so I entered the dining room in a very good humor indeed.
Dinner itself was delicious. Another convivial evening to cap the day. Tomorrow, according to the call times poster, is the Jungfrau Optional tour. Here's crossing our fingers to clear weather above the timberline!
[CR Switzerland] Day 10-1
September 26, 2006
St. Moritz - Glacier Express - Interlaken
Morning Call/Breakfast: 8.00 * Baggage Call: 8.30
Departure from St. Moritz: 9.30
The weather showed a lot of improvement when I glanced out the window while waiting for breakfast. When I opened the hotel window, I could see the sun shining through a break in the clouds, and even a little bit of blue skies. I hung out of the window breathing as much of the cool air as my lungs could manage, and felt like I was nested in a luxurious attic room. Glancing down, I discovered that I was looking out over the bus. Familiar voices floated up, and I finally gave in to my paparazzi instincts and snapped a picture of Elamr and Ueli on the street, having a chat. No doubt discussing the prospects for the day's driving.
We'd been advised to get ourselves sandwiches and drinks of choice for the train ride, since the trip would be about four hours long. The dining car was some way from our assigned carriage - and prices were bound to be a little steep. As the family quartermaster, it was my job to go down and get the provisions. I ran into Doug and Joan as they were on their way out the door, and joined them on the short walk to the COOP store. We met Jack near the top of the square, and for the fifteen minutes before the 8.00 AM store opening, we hung out and shared observations about the tour thus far.
The COOP doors opened promptly at eight, and I plunged straight into the fragrance of freshly-baked bread being pulled out of the oven. Heavenly stuff! Quickly picked out cold cuts, small croissants and bottled water for lunch, then threw in a tube of hand cream into the basket as well - my hands were drying out from the cold air and being plunged into warm water at every washroom stop. Was back up in the room by 8.15, collected the parents, made sure nothing was left behind in the drawers and closets, put out the bags, and then down to breakfast we went.
Made a good breakfast of it, given that lunch was going to be a picnic-style affair on the train. By now I was starting to think wistfully of the rice-based breakfasts we had at home, which could carry me all the way to 2.00 PM easily. Made do with the breakfast rolls and still more cold cuts instead - I was determined to keep away from fried food for a while. And while I love cereals, loading up on them, would have meant too many trips to the washrooms for comfort - and when you don't know when the next set of facilities will turn up, that definitely limits this woman's breakfast choices!
Back up to the hotel room to fetch down the carry-on bags, and then back to the lobby to turn in the key. Ueli offered to take my bulging carry-on and stow it in the lower baggage compartment, but I declined, and laughingly told him to wait till after I'd gotten myself a proper backpack in Interlaken. As usual, we were off on schedule, and Elmar loaded us on the train by 9.30 AM, well in time for the scheduled departure of 10.00 AM.
This train, unlike the delightfully vintage-type Bernina Express, was a modern thing with those panoramic windows that make you feel like you're traveling from inside a glass bubble. While the seats were comfortable, and there was even an on-board audio system, I missed the option of being able to open the windows. Panoramic views are all very fine and fantastic, but in my humble opinion, a great deal of the fun of visiting the mountains is breathing in the mountain air. I hasten to add that my less than enthusiastic opinion of the carriage was colored by the fact that the airconditioning needed tweaking, as the watery sunlight gradually warmed the train as we climbed to higher altitudes. No doubt the next batch of Insight passengers will have proper airconditioning - but I must warn the photographers among you that there will be reflections all over the place, making shooting glare-free pictures quite a challenge. (But you had best shoot what you can, never mind the reflections - you'll never know when you can go back to take them again!)
The weather cleared considerably once we were above the timber line. Lovely views! As I said earlier, any attempt at taking photos of the landscape resulted in glass reflections blurring at least one part of the image. This time, the parents had the jump seat area, and Elmar happily bonded with Dad over shared pilot experiences. Turns out that our TD used to be a glider pilot, while Dad once served with the Philippine Air Force and was a corporate pilot for 23 years.
At one of the longer stops, Gary gave everyone a huge scare by staying on the platform a touch too long. We inside the train knew that it was going to be leaving, but he was still taking pictures! Word got down to Elmar, who, with Gary's wife, hopped out of the train to call out to him, and then back on again. There were a few moments of exquisite suspense until the other end of the coach called out that our stray sheep was safely on board, and a collective sigh of relief swept over us all.
I took one look at Elmar's face and teased him, "It's OK, Elmar. You can breathe normally now!" I could totally relate to the feeling - Dad is a wandering gypsy when we're on tour sometimes, and there is nothing like turning around to discover that the person you thought was tagging along behind you, has been left around the corner admiring a shop window! The incident reminded me of various other times I'd been on a tour group when people were lost, and I shared some of the highlights of those experiences with Jenny and her husband, who had come down to the jump seat area.
Passed around the cold cuts and croissants and water as lunch time came around; and in the interests of reducing what I had to carry, made sure we ate everything. The entire trip took 4.5 hours, ending exactly at 2.oo PM. Again, Ueli was waiting patiently at the Andermatt station for us, and never was the blast of brisk air as we got down from the coach more welcome!
As most of the group elected to make this their washroom stop, there was a bit of a wait. Unable to bring myself to get back into an enclosed space after being cooped up for 4.5 hours, I had a chat with Ueli, who asked whether the air was as fresh on the train as it was out in the open. I pulled a face at him and said it would have been *much* better with open windows, which made him laugh. He smiled in understanding as I sighed that I would miss the natural air-conditioning so very much once I was back home in the tropics. In the course of our conversation, I discovered that he averages about 75,000 km/year as a tour bus driver - and was duly impressed. Ueli pointed out the general direction of the Susten Pass, which we had to go through before reaching Interlaken, assuring me that it was going to be a fine drive. I didn't doubt him for a minute, not even with clouds lowering over the mountain peaks.
St. Moritz - Glacier Express - Interlaken
Morning Call/Breakfast: 8.00 * Baggage Call: 8.30
Departure from St. Moritz: 9.30
The weather showed a lot of improvement when I glanced out the window while waiting for breakfast. When I opened the hotel window, I could see the sun shining through a break in the clouds, and even a little bit of blue skies. I hung out of the window breathing as much of the cool air as my lungs could manage, and felt like I was nested in a luxurious attic room. Glancing down, I discovered that I was looking out over the bus. Familiar voices floated up, and I finally gave in to my paparazzi instincts and snapped a picture of Elamr and Ueli on the street, having a chat. No doubt discussing the prospects for the day's driving.
We'd been advised to get ourselves sandwiches and drinks of choice for the train ride, since the trip would be about four hours long. The dining car was some way from our assigned carriage - and prices were bound to be a little steep. As the family quartermaster, it was my job to go down and get the provisions. I ran into Doug and Joan as they were on their way out the door, and joined them on the short walk to the COOP store. We met Jack near the top of the square, and for the fifteen minutes before the 8.00 AM store opening, we hung out and shared observations about the tour thus far.
The COOP doors opened promptly at eight, and I plunged straight into the fragrance of freshly-baked bread being pulled out of the oven. Heavenly stuff! Quickly picked out cold cuts, small croissants and bottled water for lunch, then threw in a tube of hand cream into the basket as well - my hands were drying out from the cold air and being plunged into warm water at every washroom stop. Was back up in the room by 8.15, collected the parents, made sure nothing was left behind in the drawers and closets, put out the bags, and then down to breakfast we went.
Made a good breakfast of it, given that lunch was going to be a picnic-style affair on the train. By now I was starting to think wistfully of the rice-based breakfasts we had at home, which could carry me all the way to 2.00 PM easily. Made do with the breakfast rolls and still more cold cuts instead - I was determined to keep away from fried food for a while. And while I love cereals, loading up on them, would have meant too many trips to the washrooms for comfort - and when you don't know when the next set of facilities will turn up, that definitely limits this woman's breakfast choices!
Back up to the hotel room to fetch down the carry-on bags, and then back to the lobby to turn in the key. Ueli offered to take my bulging carry-on and stow it in the lower baggage compartment, but I declined, and laughingly told him to wait till after I'd gotten myself a proper backpack in Interlaken. As usual, we were off on schedule, and Elmar loaded us on the train by 9.30 AM, well in time for the scheduled departure of 10.00 AM.
This train, unlike the delightfully vintage-type Bernina Express, was a modern thing with those panoramic windows that make you feel like you're traveling from inside a glass bubble. While the seats were comfortable, and there was even an on-board audio system, I missed the option of being able to open the windows. Panoramic views are all very fine and fantastic, but in my humble opinion, a great deal of the fun of visiting the mountains is breathing in the mountain air. I hasten to add that my less than enthusiastic opinion of the carriage was colored by the fact that the airconditioning needed tweaking, as the watery sunlight gradually warmed the train as we climbed to higher altitudes. No doubt the next batch of Insight passengers will have proper airconditioning - but I must warn the photographers among you that there will be reflections all over the place, making shooting glare-free pictures quite a challenge. (But you had best shoot what you can, never mind the reflections - you'll never know when you can go back to take them again!)
The weather cleared considerably once we were above the timber line. Lovely views! As I said earlier, any attempt at taking photos of the landscape resulted in glass reflections blurring at least one part of the image. This time, the parents had the jump seat area, and Elmar happily bonded with Dad over shared pilot experiences. Turns out that our TD used to be a glider pilot, while Dad once served with the Philippine Air Force and was a corporate pilot for 23 years.
At one of the longer stops, Gary gave everyone a huge scare by staying on the platform a touch too long. We inside the train knew that it was going to be leaving, but he was still taking pictures! Word got down to Elmar, who, with Gary's wife, hopped out of the train to call out to him, and then back on again. There were a few moments of exquisite suspense until the other end of the coach called out that our stray sheep was safely on board, and a collective sigh of relief swept over us all.
I took one look at Elmar's face and teased him, "It's OK, Elmar. You can breathe normally now!" I could totally relate to the feeling - Dad is a wandering gypsy when we're on tour sometimes, and there is nothing like turning around to discover that the person you thought was tagging along behind you, has been left around the corner admiring a shop window! The incident reminded me of various other times I'd been on a tour group when people were lost, and I shared some of the highlights of those experiences with Jenny and her husband, who had come down to the jump seat area.
Passed around the cold cuts and croissants and water as lunch time came around; and in the interests of reducing what I had to carry, made sure we ate everything. The entire trip took 4.5 hours, ending exactly at 2.oo PM. Again, Ueli was waiting patiently at the Andermatt station for us, and never was the blast of brisk air as we got down from the coach more welcome!
As most of the group elected to make this their washroom stop, there was a bit of a wait. Unable to bring myself to get back into an enclosed space after being cooped up for 4.5 hours, I had a chat with Ueli, who asked whether the air was as fresh on the train as it was out in the open. I pulled a face at him and said it would have been *much* better with open windows, which made him laugh. He smiled in understanding as I sighed that I would miss the natural air-conditioning so very much once I was back home in the tropics. In the course of our conversation, I discovered that he averages about 75,000 km/year as a tour bus driver - and was duly impressed. Ueli pointed out the general direction of the Susten Pass, which we had to go through before reaching Interlaken, assuring me that it was going to be a fine drive. I didn't doubt him for a minute, not even with clouds lowering over the mountain peaks.
Monday, October 23, 2006
[CR Switzerland] Day 09
September 25, 2006
Lugano - San Bernardino Pass - St. Moritz - Bernina Express Optional - St. Moritz
Morning Call: 6.45 * Breakfast call: 7.00 * Baggage Call: 7.15
Departure from Lugano: 8.15
We left Lugano in the rain and wet, weather straight out of a Gothic novel. Everyone marvelled at how incredibly fortunate it had been that the weather had been clear and bright yesterday. The parents and I were not late for the bus this time, and joined the cheerful crowd in the lobby at around 8.00 AM. Am glad to report that absolutely nothing could dampen the spirits of our group - even if one or two couples reported some "unfortunate events" to the Tour Director. Looking at the sky, I spared a thought for those loading our suitcases; the Bellevue did not have a porte cochere over the front drive, and therefore our poor coach driver and the porters had to load our bags in the rain. I thought about the extra weight in my bag (starting weight was about 15kgs, add 2.5kgs chocolate, multiply by 40 pcs of baggage for the group) and winced.
We pulled out to a now familiar rhythm: headcount, good mornings, confirmation that all valuables and significant others were on board, keys returned, admin details for the day. We also left with the hope that sunshine would greet us in St. Moritz - or at least, a cessation of the rain! The road trip was uneventful until we got to the San Bernardino Pass, where we got stuck in the first real traffic jam of the tour. We stopped at a little hotel just after the tunnel, and the promise of hot chocolate and washrooms was worth a little walk in the rain.
Now, as was typical with many a washroom on this tour, one had to descend steep, winding stairs to get to the facilities. For easier access, the doors were left standing open, which, given the long line into the ladies' room, afforded a view to unnerve the modesty-challenged. ::grin:: The soap in this particular washroom was mounted on a steel rod protruding from the wall. It was yellow, and shaped rather like a banana after constant usage. When it came to my turn to wash up, using this soap had the unfortunate effect of dropping my mind straight into the gutter - which in turn led to the suppression of giggles for the duration of the stop each time I remembered it. (I ought to have taken a picture of that soap with my mobile phone and sent it to my husband, that's what I should have done.)
Once we were back on the bus, Elmar thanked us for being so prompt - apparently Ueli wanted to take advantage of the light traffic, and was eager to get the coach on the move. We pulled out just as Sara's bus pulled in, and again there was much waving of hands between both buses. Ueli really showed us what he was made of during this drive, because you could hardly see beyond 200 feet in front of the bus. It tells you a lot about how safe I felt when I say that I was actually trying to look beyond the cloud cover for any breaks, and actually peeping out the window at the sheer drop beside the coach! I have never been the best of travelers on mountain drives; normally I get dizzy, close my eyes, and mutter prayers to Raphael Archangel to just let the drive end safely. But not this time...the silence in the bus was either people (a) catching up on sleep or (b) respectful awe at the way Ueli got our bus around the hairpin curves.
We pulled into St. Moritz around 12.30 PM, still in the rain and wet. A bit of a let-down after all the good weather we'd been having till then, if only because of the views we were missing in section of the mountain country. Elmar recommended lunch before attempting to check-in, which was scheduled at around 1.45 PM, giving those on the Bernina Express optional tour a chance to drop their carry-on bags and freshen up before setting out. Unfortunately, the Hauser Hotel coffee shop was deluged with lunchtime regulars and the early members of our group - packed to the gills, it was!
I led my parents back up to our hotel and sat them down in the lobby while trying to figure out what to do. It was then I spotted a young Japanese couple walking into a restaurant across the street, and had a brainwave. I double-timed it outside, did a quick check to see if the restaurant was open and full, and then waved across the street at my parents, who were watching from the lobby windows.
The Engadiner Restaurant is a place I most heartily recommend to the next batch of people taking this tour. It is small and cosy; I think the proprietors live on top of the restaurant. Furnished in warm woods, and the prices were quite reasonable. Even more important, lunch (barley soup, pork steak and frites) was hot, and served generously, and perfect to take off the chill. Another thing - don't order the cheese fondue unless you're at least a party four people - the pot of bubbling cheese mixture that the proprietor/head server put on the table was *huge*. I know this, because the American couple at the table beside us who ordered it, suddenly had this deer-in-the-headlights expression. :D
Once we were done with lunch, we checked with the front desk at 1.45 and were greeted with the news that the rooms were ready. Picked up the hand-carry bags from behind the front desk, claimed the key, and we found ourselves in a cosy room with a walk-in closet and more wood-based furniture. The overall effect was like being in a ski cabin. Tested the third bed and was greatly relieved to find that the mattress was nice and firm, unlike the previous night's, which had a tendency to sag just beneath my lower back.
But there wasn't any time for a nap - just enough time to settle the suitcases, freshen up, and be down at the lobby by 2.00 sot that we could leave the hotel by 2.20 in order to catch the Bernina Express. By virtue of being one of the last into the carriage, I managed to snag my favorite seat in any form of transport - the jump seat, which meant I had a little corner all to myself.
All in all, it was a wonderful ride through the mountain country - so maybe the cloud and mist hazed up the view, I thought it was a bit like riding through certain parts of the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy. Even with less than bright sunshine, we were still lucky - the clouds would part at just the right times, giving us glimpses of the valleys and peaks and glaciers. One of the best things about this train is that you could pull down the windows and let in the bracing mountain air - and also have clearer pictures when the glaciers were finally sighted through breaks in the haze. There was a part when the train passed by a gorgeous glacier and the framing against my window was just too perfect not to share with all the rest of folks with cameras. This inspired suggestions that I ought to be charging a token fee for the use of the window, since I had to step away from my seat for them to get their shots. All the cameras clicking...we were mountain paparazzi, that's the word for it. Stalking all the best shots of the poor unsuspecting natural wonders!
Elmar regaled folks in the jumpseat area with stories of his life as a TD; a difficult life, and challenging, but it’s obvious he enjoys the job or he wouldn’t have stuck with it for 30 years! Between his stories and jumping up and down to take photos of all the best sights, the trip went very quickly; and at the tour’s end, it was back to Ueli, patiently waiting with the coach at the station. On the way back to the hotel, Elmar reminded us that pre-dinner drinks were going to be served on behalf of the return customers, and everyone was else was invited to join as our guests. Having accompanied my parents on at least three of their six Insight tours, this announcement was a fine thing, though Ma's shyness took over as our names were read out from the list of "veteran travelers". Quite a few of us in this batch - at least eight or ten have traveled with Insight more than three times.
It turned out to be a very social evening. The waiter at the bar, upon discovering that my parents and I were from the Philippines, was happy to announce that he had seen Manila and Cebu, back in 2003. I told him to take the time to come and visit the country again, so much has changed, he'd hardly recognize the old tourist areas! Sue gave everyone heart palpitations by nearly missing a step on the circular stairs on the way up, which made me bundle my parents into the elevator quicktime - I wasn't about to risk anything with Dad's unpredictable vertigo spells, and Ma's tired eyes; it had been quite a long day already!
The dining room was a tight fit, but it only seems to have added to the conviviality. The food was good, and although we called it an early night, I managed to share a few travel yarns with some of the group members after going down to check on the call times for the next day.
Here's hoping that we wake up to better weather tomorrow - or at least, no rain!
Lugano - San Bernardino Pass - St. Moritz - Bernina Express Optional - St. Moritz
Morning Call: 6.45 * Breakfast call: 7.00 * Baggage Call: 7.15
Departure from Lugano: 8.15
We left Lugano in the rain and wet, weather straight out of a Gothic novel. Everyone marvelled at how incredibly fortunate it had been that the weather had been clear and bright yesterday. The parents and I were not late for the bus this time, and joined the cheerful crowd in the lobby at around 8.00 AM. Am glad to report that absolutely nothing could dampen the spirits of our group - even if one or two couples reported some "unfortunate events" to the Tour Director. Looking at the sky, I spared a thought for those loading our suitcases; the Bellevue did not have a porte cochere over the front drive, and therefore our poor coach driver and the porters had to load our bags in the rain. I thought about the extra weight in my bag (starting weight was about 15kgs, add 2.5kgs chocolate, multiply by 40 pcs of baggage for the group) and winced.
We pulled out to a now familiar rhythm: headcount, good mornings, confirmation that all valuables and significant others were on board, keys returned, admin details for the day. We also left with the hope that sunshine would greet us in St. Moritz - or at least, a cessation of the rain! The road trip was uneventful until we got to the San Bernardino Pass, where we got stuck in the first real traffic jam of the tour. We stopped at a little hotel just after the tunnel, and the promise of hot chocolate and washrooms was worth a little walk in the rain.
Now, as was typical with many a washroom on this tour, one had to descend steep, winding stairs to get to the facilities. For easier access, the doors were left standing open, which, given the long line into the ladies' room, afforded a view to unnerve the modesty-challenged. ::grin:: The soap in this particular washroom was mounted on a steel rod protruding from the wall. It was yellow, and shaped rather like a banana after constant usage. When it came to my turn to wash up, using this soap had the unfortunate effect of dropping my mind straight into the gutter - which in turn led to the suppression of giggles for the duration of the stop each time I remembered it. (I ought to have taken a picture of that soap with my mobile phone and sent it to my husband, that's what I should have done.)
Once we were back on the bus, Elmar thanked us for being so prompt - apparently Ueli wanted to take advantage of the light traffic, and was eager to get the coach on the move. We pulled out just as Sara's bus pulled in, and again there was much waving of hands between both buses. Ueli really showed us what he was made of during this drive, because you could hardly see beyond 200 feet in front of the bus. It tells you a lot about how safe I felt when I say that I was actually trying to look beyond the cloud cover for any breaks, and actually peeping out the window at the sheer drop beside the coach! I have never been the best of travelers on mountain drives; normally I get dizzy, close my eyes, and mutter prayers to Raphael Archangel to just let the drive end safely. But not this time...the silence in the bus was either people (a) catching up on sleep or (b) respectful awe at the way Ueli got our bus around the hairpin curves.
We pulled into St. Moritz around 12.30 PM, still in the rain and wet. A bit of a let-down after all the good weather we'd been having till then, if only because of the views we were missing in section of the mountain country. Elmar recommended lunch before attempting to check-in, which was scheduled at around 1.45 PM, giving those on the Bernina Express optional tour a chance to drop their carry-on bags and freshen up before setting out. Unfortunately, the Hauser Hotel coffee shop was deluged with lunchtime regulars and the early members of our group - packed to the gills, it was!
I led my parents back up to our hotel and sat them down in the lobby while trying to figure out what to do. It was then I spotted a young Japanese couple walking into a restaurant across the street, and had a brainwave. I double-timed it outside, did a quick check to see if the restaurant was open and full, and then waved across the street at my parents, who were watching from the lobby windows.
The Engadiner Restaurant is a place I most heartily recommend to the next batch of people taking this tour. It is small and cosy; I think the proprietors live on top of the restaurant. Furnished in warm woods, and the prices were quite reasonable. Even more important, lunch (barley soup, pork steak and frites) was hot, and served generously, and perfect to take off the chill. Another thing - don't order the cheese fondue unless you're at least a party four people - the pot of bubbling cheese mixture that the proprietor/head server put on the table was *huge*. I know this, because the American couple at the table beside us who ordered it, suddenly had this deer-in-the-headlights expression. :D
Once we were done with lunch, we checked with the front desk at 1.45 and were greeted with the news that the rooms were ready. Picked up the hand-carry bags from behind the front desk, claimed the key, and we found ourselves in a cosy room with a walk-in closet and more wood-based furniture. The overall effect was like being in a ski cabin. Tested the third bed and was greatly relieved to find that the mattress was nice and firm, unlike the previous night's, which had a tendency to sag just beneath my lower back.
But there wasn't any time for a nap - just enough time to settle the suitcases, freshen up, and be down at the lobby by 2.00 sot that we could leave the hotel by 2.20 in order to catch the Bernina Express. By virtue of being one of the last into the carriage, I managed to snag my favorite seat in any form of transport - the jump seat, which meant I had a little corner all to myself.
All in all, it was a wonderful ride through the mountain country - so maybe the cloud and mist hazed up the view, I thought it was a bit like riding through certain parts of the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy. Even with less than bright sunshine, we were still lucky - the clouds would part at just the right times, giving us glimpses of the valleys and peaks and glaciers. One of the best things about this train is that you could pull down the windows and let in the bracing mountain air - and also have clearer pictures when the glaciers were finally sighted through breaks in the haze. There was a part when the train passed by a gorgeous glacier and the framing against my window was just too perfect not to share with all the rest of folks with cameras. This inspired suggestions that I ought to be charging a token fee for the use of the window, since I had to step away from my seat for them to get their shots. All the cameras clicking...we were mountain paparazzi, that's the word for it. Stalking all the best shots of the poor unsuspecting natural wonders!
Elmar regaled folks in the jumpseat area with stories of his life as a TD; a difficult life, and challenging, but it’s obvious he enjoys the job or he wouldn’t have stuck with it for 30 years! Between his stories and jumping up and down to take photos of all the best sights, the trip went very quickly; and at the tour’s end, it was back to Ueli, patiently waiting with the coach at the station. On the way back to the hotel, Elmar reminded us that pre-dinner drinks were going to be served on behalf of the return customers, and everyone was else was invited to join as our guests. Having accompanied my parents on at least three of their six Insight tours, this announcement was a fine thing, though Ma's shyness took over as our names were read out from the list of "veteran travelers". Quite a few of us in this batch - at least eight or ten have traveled with Insight more than three times.
It turned out to be a very social evening. The waiter at the bar, upon discovering that my parents and I were from the Philippines, was happy to announce that he had seen Manila and Cebu, back in 2003. I told him to take the time to come and visit the country again, so much has changed, he'd hardly recognize the old tourist areas! Sue gave everyone heart palpitations by nearly missing a step on the circular stairs on the way up, which made me bundle my parents into the elevator quicktime - I wasn't about to risk anything with Dad's unpredictable vertigo spells, and Ma's tired eyes; it had been quite a long day already!
The dining room was a tight fit, but it only seems to have added to the conviviality. The food was good, and although we called it an early night, I managed to share a few travel yarns with some of the group members after going down to check on the call times for the next day.
Here's hoping that we wake up to better weather tomorrow - or at least, no rain!
Sunday, October 22, 2006
[CR Switzerland] Day 08
September 24, 2006
Lugano - Cabellano Italian Market and Villa Taranto Optional - Lugano
Morning call: 6.30 * Breakfast call: 7.00
Departure for Optional Tour: 8.00
Today my parents and I were the last on the bus, almost missing the departure call. I was totally under the impression that the coach was going to leave the hotel at 8.15! Definitely I left some of my brains behind in Isola Bella, if not back in Zermatt altogether. Thank heavens for Jack, who, when Elmar realized he was missing people from the head count, noted that we were the ones not yet on board.
The group still managed to get out at 8.05, no thanks to me - I came flying down the lobby with my parents hurrying along behind, just in time to meet Elmar coming in through the door. Breathless explanations and some heart palpitations later, I managed to render myself rational as we pulled away for another border crossing. (Come to think of it, I think this segment of the tour had the most number of border crossings - at least twice yesterday and and twice today.)
There was a small delay at the border, as customs/immigration explained about a local Alpini (Alpine police) celebration, and how the road to Villa Taranto was blocked till one in the afternoon. This meant that instead of pulling out of Cabellona before lunch, we'd have to stay there till at least noon. We were dropped off in front of the town church, and then led down a cobblestone path down towards the waterfront, where the market stalls were set up. Wear sensible, comfortable walking shoes, even though there are smooth sidewalk sections to help in the descent and return ascent. On the way down, we were given a chance to stop at an ATM and take out some Euros. I'd forgotten about this little detail when we changed money in Zermatt the other night - we should have bought some Euros for this optional.
At the bottom of the hill, Elmar paused us at a point just overlooking the market, gave us our call times and admin details, then set us free to wander at will. This was the fun part, as we had arrived before the real Sunday crowds, around 9.00 AM. Before we set out on our ramble, I slipped Elmar a little note. It's a custom I began with my first tour of Europe; I write a little note saying how much we appreciate all the "behind the scenes" efforts taken by the Tour Director to make our trip a smooth one, and how much we are enjoying ourselves.
Our lack of Euros kept us from spending on items like leather jackets; however, Dad managed to get himself a nice leather belt. He was also on the lookout for golf gloves, but nothing seemed to suit him.
I had my eye on a very nice leather bag ostensibly from Florence - soft leather, nice color; but then I thought of the bulk it would create in my suitcase and decided to pass on it. The place was very reminiscent of the flea markets we have at home - lucky thing I didn’t get any pangs of homesickness this time! Nearing the end of a tour, I've been known to get all misty-eyed if I see something that vividly reminds me of home.
At one stall, Ma bought table linens for the formal dining table, and it turned out that the Italian vendor’s “darling” is a Filipina from Nueva Ecija! For this reason, Ma turned on all the charm of her bargaining tactics and managed to bring down the price a wee bit. Contrast this with Dad, who couldn't get the nice Italian seller to budge, not even with my broken Italian to soft-soap the transaction. Bargaining comes second nature to Ma - she'll even try it in the department stores!
Lunch (more of a late brunch), for us, was a very minimal affair. Croissants stuffed with marmalade, hot chocolate and mineral water at a gelateria that accepted VISA. (Yay for credit card-enabled establishments!) Once we’d done lunch, we had a chat with Elmar at the meeting point, and he gave us a headstart for the bus, which was nice of him, given the steepness of the ascent and Ma's tendency to peep at all the stalls on the way up.
Departure call was for 12.25 PM, and we left without incident. Sara's bus collected her group about five minutes before Ueli rolled in with our bus. It was a pleasant surprise to discover that the roadblock for the local Alpini (Alpine Corps) celebration had been taken down early, so we got into Villa Taranto in good time, pretty much almost on the original schedule.
Ye gods, but Villa Taranto was a spectacular place - the dahlia gardens, as I thought, caught Ma’s eye instantly, and she was in ecstasy over the colors and sizes of the blooms. The place was started as a botanical garden by a Scotsman, of all people, and if one thought the Isola Bella gardens were lovely, these were more than impressive enough, in terms of plant variety. There was even a greenhouse with those gigantic Amazon waterlilies!
At the mausoleum of the Villa's founder, I opted out of the uphill climb segment in order to keep parents company - though it would have been fun to try and see if I could make it without hyperventilating at the top. Staying down had its fun, though - I saw a pair of squirrels frolicking about, while exploring some of the side paths from where I had left my parents to sit and take in the view. The cute things were teasing the photographer in me with their antics; I have now made plans to get myself a slightly larger zoom than the 76mm I have now. That, or a digital video camera. :D
Elmar caught up with us as we were walking towards the exit and I was all but prone on the grass trying to catch one more shot of the squirrels (sue me, but small animals bring out the squee factor in me)! He walked with us to the exit, where the parents decided to visit the washrooms before settling down on a bench with a vantage point over the parking courtyard. I chose to stand, and as the others returned from their hillside ramble, managed to bond a little more with different members of the tour group as we waited on the departure call time.
Another excellent opportunity for a candid "Kodak moment" shot of Elmar and Ueli relaxing over coffee presented itself - however, taking it would have meant making like a paparazzi, as a very inconvenient (but very lush) bush was in the way! Besides, there’s something about driver/TD quiet time that gives one pause before intruding - still, that hasn’t stopped me from making mental notes on “the pic that got away”.
We left Villa Taranto around 2.45 PM. I suppose I was more tired than I thought, because despite my best intentions, I fell into a solid nap on the way back, waking up just before the border crossing. Once we were back at the hotel, there was a little down time while waiting for the 7.00 PM dinner hour at the hotel restaurant. Coming down early to cross-check the poster for the next day's call times, I had a chance to chat with Jack. Perhaps it was because I was chaperoning my parents about, but I notice that I bonded most easily with the older tour members. Which was actually a lot of fun, because they were full of good humor and had an endless fund of reminisces!
For dinner this time, the parents and I had ossobusco; I started with consomme alla sherry, which really hit the spot after the long day. Once more, I was all about a good, substantial meal, and the ossobusco filled that requirement nicely, served with risotto on the side. Ma found the veal soft and delicious, and enjoyed the risotto, which held the taste of butter and cheese in it.
As we got up to leave, the maitre d' asked if we had found the meal to our liking. I told him that for that meal alone I’d be willing to revisit Lugano - which lit up his face considerably. It also brought a smile to our server's face, and gave me a pleasant buzz. It's true - the hotel serves good, if pricey food. If I were to do this tour over again, I'd much rather skip the market in favor of the morning in Villa Taranto and then an early afternoon return to explore Lugano. I didn't see a smidgen of the place, and we were there for two nights! But then, you see, I wasn't in shopping mode for most of this tour, so that may have something to do with it.
Lugano - Cabellano Italian Market and Villa Taranto Optional - Lugano
Morning call: 6.30 * Breakfast call: 7.00
Departure for Optional Tour: 8.00
Today my parents and I were the last on the bus, almost missing the departure call. I was totally under the impression that the coach was going to leave the hotel at 8.15! Definitely I left some of my brains behind in Isola Bella, if not back in Zermatt altogether. Thank heavens for Jack, who, when Elmar realized he was missing people from the head count, noted that we were the ones not yet on board.
The group still managed to get out at 8.05, no thanks to me - I came flying down the lobby with my parents hurrying along behind, just in time to meet Elmar coming in through the door. Breathless explanations and some heart palpitations later, I managed to render myself rational as we pulled away for another border crossing. (Come to think of it, I think this segment of the tour had the most number of border crossings - at least twice yesterday and and twice today.)
There was a small delay at the border, as customs/immigration explained about a local Alpini (Alpine police) celebration, and how the road to Villa Taranto was blocked till one in the afternoon. This meant that instead of pulling out of Cabellona before lunch, we'd have to stay there till at least noon. We were dropped off in front of the town church, and then led down a cobblestone path down towards the waterfront, where the market stalls were set up. Wear sensible, comfortable walking shoes, even though there are smooth sidewalk sections to help in the descent and return ascent. On the way down, we were given a chance to stop at an ATM and take out some Euros. I'd forgotten about this little detail when we changed money in Zermatt the other night - we should have bought some Euros for this optional.
At the bottom of the hill, Elmar paused us at a point just overlooking the market, gave us our call times and admin details, then set us free to wander at will. This was the fun part, as we had arrived before the real Sunday crowds, around 9.00 AM. Before we set out on our ramble, I slipped Elmar a little note. It's a custom I began with my first tour of Europe; I write a little note saying how much we appreciate all the "behind the scenes" efforts taken by the Tour Director to make our trip a smooth one, and how much we are enjoying ourselves.
Our lack of Euros kept us from spending on items like leather jackets; however, Dad managed to get himself a nice leather belt. He was also on the lookout for golf gloves, but nothing seemed to suit him.
I had my eye on a very nice leather bag ostensibly from Florence - soft leather, nice color; but then I thought of the bulk it would create in my suitcase and decided to pass on it. The place was very reminiscent of the flea markets we have at home - lucky thing I didn’t get any pangs of homesickness this time! Nearing the end of a tour, I've been known to get all misty-eyed if I see something that vividly reminds me of home.
At one stall, Ma bought table linens for the formal dining table, and it turned out that the Italian vendor’s “darling” is a Filipina from Nueva Ecija! For this reason, Ma turned on all the charm of her bargaining tactics and managed to bring down the price a wee bit. Contrast this with Dad, who couldn't get the nice Italian seller to budge, not even with my broken Italian to soft-soap the transaction. Bargaining comes second nature to Ma - she'll even try it in the department stores!
Lunch (more of a late brunch), for us, was a very minimal affair. Croissants stuffed with marmalade, hot chocolate and mineral water at a gelateria that accepted VISA. (Yay for credit card-enabled establishments!) Once we’d done lunch, we had a chat with Elmar at the meeting point, and he gave us a headstart for the bus, which was nice of him, given the steepness of the ascent and Ma's tendency to peep at all the stalls on the way up.
Departure call was for 12.25 PM, and we left without incident. Sara's bus collected her group about five minutes before Ueli rolled in with our bus. It was a pleasant surprise to discover that the roadblock for the local Alpini (Alpine Corps) celebration had been taken down early, so we got into Villa Taranto in good time, pretty much almost on the original schedule.
Ye gods, but Villa Taranto was a spectacular place - the dahlia gardens, as I thought, caught Ma’s eye instantly, and she was in ecstasy over the colors and sizes of the blooms. The place was started as a botanical garden by a Scotsman, of all people, and if one thought the Isola Bella gardens were lovely, these were more than impressive enough, in terms of plant variety. There was even a greenhouse with those gigantic Amazon waterlilies!
At the mausoleum of the Villa's founder, I opted out of the uphill climb segment in order to keep parents company - though it would have been fun to try and see if I could make it without hyperventilating at the top. Staying down had its fun, though - I saw a pair of squirrels frolicking about, while exploring some of the side paths from where I had left my parents to sit and take in the view. The cute things were teasing the photographer in me with their antics; I have now made plans to get myself a slightly larger zoom than the 76mm I have now. That, or a digital video camera. :D
Elmar caught up with us as we were walking towards the exit and I was all but prone on the grass trying to catch one more shot of the squirrels (sue me, but small animals bring out the squee factor in me)! He walked with us to the exit, where the parents decided to visit the washrooms before settling down on a bench with a vantage point over the parking courtyard. I chose to stand, and as the others returned from their hillside ramble, managed to bond a little more with different members of the tour group as we waited on the departure call time.
Another excellent opportunity for a candid "Kodak moment" shot of Elmar and Ueli relaxing over coffee presented itself - however, taking it would have meant making like a paparazzi, as a very inconvenient (but very lush) bush was in the way! Besides, there’s something about driver/TD quiet time that gives one pause before intruding - still, that hasn’t stopped me from making mental notes on “the pic that got away”.
We left Villa Taranto around 2.45 PM. I suppose I was more tired than I thought, because despite my best intentions, I fell into a solid nap on the way back, waking up just before the border crossing. Once we were back at the hotel, there was a little down time while waiting for the 7.00 PM dinner hour at the hotel restaurant. Coming down early to cross-check the poster for the next day's call times, I had a chance to chat with Jack. Perhaps it was because I was chaperoning my parents about, but I notice that I bonded most easily with the older tour members. Which was actually a lot of fun, because they were full of good humor and had an endless fund of reminisces!
For dinner this time, the parents and I had ossobusco; I started with consomme alla sherry, which really hit the spot after the long day. Once more, I was all about a good, substantial meal, and the ossobusco filled that requirement nicely, served with risotto on the side. Ma found the veal soft and delicious, and enjoyed the risotto, which held the taste of butter and cheese in it.
As we got up to leave, the maitre d' asked if we had found the meal to our liking. I told him that for that meal alone I’d be willing to revisit Lugano - which lit up his face considerably. It also brought a smile to our server's face, and gave me a pleasant buzz. It's true - the hotel serves good, if pricey food. If I were to do this tour over again, I'd much rather skip the market in favor of the morning in Villa Taranto and then an early afternoon return to explore Lugano. I didn't see a smidgen of the place, and we were there for two nights! But then, you see, I wasn't in shopping mode for most of this tour, so that may have something to do with it.
[CR Switzerland] Day 07-2
September 23, 2006
Zermatt - Isola Bella Optional - Lugano
In due course, Elmar brought us back around to the foyer of the palace, and there was a dash for the washrooms while waiting for Arno, the house guide. It was a great pity that photography inside the manor/castle wasn’t allowed…more’s the pity I couldn’t get an official photobook, but those are the breaks. I managed to collect enough notes from the spiel, which Arno delivered with authority and good humor.
The Borromeo family produced San Carlos Borromeo, the patron of our San Carlos Seminary in Guadalupe, Makati City (home to those with late vocations). The house was full of art masterpieces, and the vista from the foot of Napoleon’s bed is quite impressive. Interesting to note that the family still keeps a set of apartments in the manor/castle, and often comes down to stay. About halfway through the tour, Arno said we were going to have lots of stairs to negotiate, to reach The Grotto Suite of rooms; but he offered an option for people to sit down on the couches in the reception room we were standing in. Not a bad place to rest, it looked like a micro version of the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles.
The Grotto Suite was on the lower levels of the island, closer to the waterline, and every wall and ceiling was encrusted with coral, shells, undersea rocks, in an effort to simulate a series of underwater caves, I suppose. Then we were led through one of the oldest parts of the house, a tower with a spiral staircase cast out of (or was it carved out of?) blocks of granite and set into the wall.
Back up, through the reception room where we'd left some of the tour members, then through the art gallery with its magnificent tapestries from Gobelins. Of note was the one nearest the exit. It depicted a stream of running water, and if you kept your eyes fixed on it as you walked down in front of the tapestry, you could actually see the perspective shifting to follow you. Many oohs and aaahs, and applause for Arno as he handed us back to Elmar and the Sara's group were directed back to her. We'd had to merge for this optional in order to be accommodated, but that wasn't so bad.
Got back down to the docks without too much trouble, and we were back on our coach at 2.30 PM sharp. Checked with the parents that they had had a nice time at Stresa, and then as we made our way through traffic, Elmar started to whet our appetites by describing the delights to be found at the Alprose chocolate factory. This was a bonus side trip, and he hadn't wanted to guarantee that it would happen, just in case circumstances went against us. However, even with the traffic, it appeared that we would get to the factory on time, so Elmar felt justified in telling us how Alprose was among the best chocolatiers in Switzerland, along with Lindt, Suchard, and Nestle.
By the time we pulled into the chocolate factory, it was exactly 4.30 PM, just 30 minutes shy of closing time! There was a bit of a dash for the washrooms, then into the factory we went. First thing that hits you is the smell of chocolate from the chocolate fountain where you get your first taste of the Alprose product. Two of the staff dip small wafer rolls (we call them barquillos at home) into the flowing chocolate and hand them out. Ma and I saw a little of the informational video before we were reminded that we had barely 15 minutes left before closing time.
So...off into the little shop we crowded. Free samples, yum! Browsing through the shelves, trying to choose what to grab, was a difficult thing. We must have bought at least four kilograms worth of chocolate bars and candy. I know this, because the first package of assorted chocolates I seized upon was clearly marked at two kilograms - and Ma added a few more things after that! So funny - we managed to lose Dad in the crowd, and imagine the hilarity when we met at the bus to see him carrying a sensibly sized bag of chocolates, and Ma and I with what amounted to a miniature sack of the sweetness. :)
By the time we pulled into Lugano, I was feeling in need of a hot shower and a change of clothes. The sky was still somewhat overcast, and there was a general air of hopeful expectation as we drove down past the main shopping area towards our hotel. I saw a fountain in the lake as Monte Bre was pointed out to us; and then finally, we were let out at our hotel.
Discovered early the technique of opening the elevator door quickly the moment it arrived, or risk losing our chance of riding it! We were given a nice room at the end of the hall, where the sofa converted into a huge full bed, which was perfect after the long day. Room to stretch! The bathroom could have used a light in the bathtub area, though - when the shower curtain was closed, you were shut out of all the available light in the room. Otherwise, that was one *big* bathroom, with a bidet and a heated towel rack.
We had dinner at the hotel, as Ma was wary of walking to the commercial area at night. By this time, I was starving - the lunch from Isola Bella was less than a memory, and it was with great interest that I perused the menu. Ma and Dad, having had a glorious lunch of spaghetti con vongole in Stresa, wanted nothing more than the vegetable soup. I went for something more substantial, and had consomme with egg to warm myself up, and a steak. Both were excellent - especially the steak, which came out just the way I liked it, seared on the outside, tender on the inside. I won a smile from the maitre d' by asking him to tell the kitchen that the meal was very much to my liking.
Tomorrow is the outing to the Italian Market. Wonder if I'll be able to get anything. Certainly hope it doesn't rain!
Zermatt - Isola Bella Optional - Lugano
In due course, Elmar brought us back around to the foyer of the palace, and there was a dash for the washrooms while waiting for Arno, the house guide. It was a great pity that photography inside the manor/castle wasn’t allowed…more’s the pity I couldn’t get an official photobook, but those are the breaks. I managed to collect enough notes from the spiel, which Arno delivered with authority and good humor.
The Borromeo family produced San Carlos Borromeo, the patron of our San Carlos Seminary in Guadalupe, Makati City (home to those with late vocations). The house was full of art masterpieces, and the vista from the foot of Napoleon’s bed is quite impressive. Interesting to note that the family still keeps a set of apartments in the manor/castle, and often comes down to stay. About halfway through the tour, Arno said we were going to have lots of stairs to negotiate, to reach The Grotto Suite of rooms; but he offered an option for people to sit down on the couches in the reception room we were standing in. Not a bad place to rest, it looked like a micro version of the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles.
The Grotto Suite was on the lower levels of the island, closer to the waterline, and every wall and ceiling was encrusted with coral, shells, undersea rocks, in an effort to simulate a series of underwater caves, I suppose. Then we were led through one of the oldest parts of the house, a tower with a spiral staircase cast out of (or was it carved out of?) blocks of granite and set into the wall.
Back up, through the reception room where we'd left some of the tour members, then through the art gallery with its magnificent tapestries from Gobelins. Of note was the one nearest the exit. It depicted a stream of running water, and if you kept your eyes fixed on it as you walked down in front of the tapestry, you could actually see the perspective shifting to follow you. Many oohs and aaahs, and applause for Arno as he handed us back to Elmar and the Sara's group were directed back to her. We'd had to merge for this optional in order to be accommodated, but that wasn't so bad.
Got back down to the docks without too much trouble, and we were back on our coach at 2.30 PM sharp. Checked with the parents that they had had a nice time at Stresa, and then as we made our way through traffic, Elmar started to whet our appetites by describing the delights to be found at the Alprose chocolate factory. This was a bonus side trip, and he hadn't wanted to guarantee that it would happen, just in case circumstances went against us. However, even with the traffic, it appeared that we would get to the factory on time, so Elmar felt justified in telling us how Alprose was among the best chocolatiers in Switzerland, along with Lindt, Suchard, and Nestle.
By the time we pulled into the chocolate factory, it was exactly 4.30 PM, just 30 minutes shy of closing time! There was a bit of a dash for the washrooms, then into the factory we went. First thing that hits you is the smell of chocolate from the chocolate fountain where you get your first taste of the Alprose product. Two of the staff dip small wafer rolls (we call them barquillos at home) into the flowing chocolate and hand them out. Ma and I saw a little of the informational video before we were reminded that we had barely 15 minutes left before closing time.
So...off into the little shop we crowded. Free samples, yum! Browsing through the shelves, trying to choose what to grab, was a difficult thing. We must have bought at least four kilograms worth of chocolate bars and candy. I know this, because the first package of assorted chocolates I seized upon was clearly marked at two kilograms - and Ma added a few more things after that! So funny - we managed to lose Dad in the crowd, and imagine the hilarity when we met at the bus to see him carrying a sensibly sized bag of chocolates, and Ma and I with what amounted to a miniature sack of the sweetness. :)
By the time we pulled into Lugano, I was feeling in need of a hot shower and a change of clothes. The sky was still somewhat overcast, and there was a general air of hopeful expectation as we drove down past the main shopping area towards our hotel. I saw a fountain in the lake as Monte Bre was pointed out to us; and then finally, we were let out at our hotel.
Discovered early the technique of opening the elevator door quickly the moment it arrived, or risk losing our chance of riding it! We were given a nice room at the end of the hall, where the sofa converted into a huge full bed, which was perfect after the long day. Room to stretch! The bathroom could have used a light in the bathtub area, though - when the shower curtain was closed, you were shut out of all the available light in the room. Otherwise, that was one *big* bathroom, with a bidet and a heated towel rack.
We had dinner at the hotel, as Ma was wary of walking to the commercial area at night. By this time, I was starving - the lunch from Isola Bella was less than a memory, and it was with great interest that I perused the menu. Ma and Dad, having had a glorious lunch of spaghetti con vongole in Stresa, wanted nothing more than the vegetable soup. I went for something more substantial, and had consomme with egg to warm myself up, and a steak. Both were excellent - especially the steak, which came out just the way I liked it, seared on the outside, tender on the inside. I won a smile from the maitre d' by asking him to tell the kitchen that the meal was very much to my liking.
Tomorrow is the outing to the Italian Market. Wonder if I'll be able to get anything. Certainly hope it doesn't rain!
[CR Switzerland] Day 07-1
September 23, 2006
Zermatt - Isola Bella Optional - Lugano
Morning call: 6.30 AM * Bags and Breakfast: 6.45 AM
Leave Zermatt: 7.45 AM * Leave Tasch: 8.00 AM
Another crack of dawn morning call, and the bags were out in short order. We took the lift down to the breakfast room, to find the hallway dark and the room itself still closed. So up again to the lobby, where we said hello to Elmar and Ueli as we settled down to wait. The rest of the group trickled in, and we were about 80% assembled before the breakfast room opened at 7.00 AM. The parents and I managed to make a good breakfast of it, and were among the first seven people to take the minibus down to the waiting coach in Tasch.
We left Tasch just a few minutes off the projected time of 8.00 AM, pretty good time for moving 40 people down a mountain road. The weather was turning overcast, and as the sun climbed over the horizon, it was noted that it was getting hazy on the mountains as we moved towards our next stop. I managed to barely stay awake during the recital of the admin details and the day's itinerary - half of me was still snuggled under the duvet back in the hotel - and by the time Ueli had the bus descending onto the highway, I gave up trying to stay awake.
Woke up feeling refreshed well before the rest stop, though. No inspections at the Swiss-Italian border crossings. I thought of the money Ma and I spent for our visa fees and had to agree with Elmar's comment that if you had all your documentation handy, the officials seldom asked to see them. But if you took a chance and didn't have even *one* piece of paper...that would be the time you would be stuck explaining things to the border patrols.
Once we were over the Italian border, there was a subtle shift in the personalities of our driver and TD. Ueli actually got to use the horn on the bus a few times! The best part was watching Elmar switching on “Italian mode” while coordinating with his contact for the Isola Bella tour; gone was his normal cool and efficient conversation, instead came rapid-fire Italian that could be clearly heard towards the back of the bus. :) Even his body language changed - he was actually standing in the jump seat and all but gesturing with his hands as he assured his contact that we were definitely on our way and would arrive at the designated meeting point in a matter of minutes, si, bene, ciao! :D
By 11.30 AM, we'd pulled into the destination town for the Isola Bella tour, and all those going were dropped off at the boat landing for the trip. It was good to know that those heading to lunch in Stresa (read: my parents) would be under Ueli's care, that he'd be pointing out places to go once they were there.
Getting on the boat was fun. It didn't tie up to the dock! Basically, it sounded as though it grounded itself on something underwater to hold itself steady. The sky continued slightly hazy and overcast, which was fine by me, since the weather was much warmer now. We passed by the Fisherman's Island, and Isola Madre (sort of like a Dower House island) before landing at Isola Bella. Watching the traffic of small ferry boats surrounding the docks was fascinating - and once again, we didn't tie up to the dock. Our landing was cushioned by used rubber tires tied to either side of the dock, and the Captain and Elmar gave everyone a hand out of the boat.
Crowds galore at Isola Bella, which did not take away from the interesting view. We were brought around the corner of the palace into a small courtyard, where we were given our call times and directions along the main street, where there was a little street market in progress. Elmar steered us into a little cafe that (thank heavens!) took Swiss francs, and would give us free use of the washrooms in the restaurant across the street - all we had to do was say we were cafe customers.
We were waited on by someone who I think was the proprietor of the establishment. Quite a bit of good-natured banter while he took our orders, and in my case, lunch consisted of white sausages with sweet mustard. Good stuff, and filled me up nicely.
I had a small adventure in the washrooms - the ladies were allowed to use the gents' washroom if no one else was there, which is pretty standard practice. Thing is, when it came time to unlock the door, I got a little rattled and forgot which way and how many times to turn the lock to get the door open! So I was stuck for about three very *long* minutes in there before I got out. Am pretty sure that had there been any, heat sensors would have registered the fire in my face from at least twenty feet. You can bet I got out of there very, very fast.
Decided to follow the street market all the way to its end. Lots of pretty products - pashminas, souvenirs, jewelry and leather goods. I ended up with a pair of mosaic earrings. Then I decided to pay my respects to the church whose bells I had heard tolling noontime - which is also the afternoon Angelus hour back home. I was promptly impressed by the busts of the four archsbishops atop the main altar, and the glass-encased figure beneath it. Turns out that the figure was not the real body of the patron saint, who is interred in Rome, but a replica.
It was a little like meeting old friends, looking around the place and recognizing the images of St. Francis of Assisi, St. Therese of Lisieux, and a lovely image of Our Lady of the Brown Scapular - naturally, many photos were taken, from ceiling to floor. Prayers were said, as well, and a candle lit, as is my usual custom when visiting churches.
By 1.30 PM we were all assembled for our tour of Isola Bella. Elmar had explained that he would be taking us on a tour of the gardens, and then would hand us over to the resident palace guide for a tour of the interior. Those gardens were fantastic - what a pity we didn’t have all the time in the world to linger and take those stairs at more leisure! Some of the plants were over a thousand years old - like the cork tree and the olive tree that were singled out for special notice. Oh, and I mustn't forget to mention the white peacock family that was strolling through the garden!
There's also a huge structure dominating the formal garden - like a movie set backdrop, with fountains and classical statues. Awesome stuff. Thanks to the slight humidity, I was a bit sweaty after climbing the stairs of that structure, but the view from the rear is worth the climb - it stretches out over the expanse of Lake Maggiore on all sides. Perfect as a lookout point, where you can see the all the towns along the shoreline.
Zermatt - Isola Bella Optional - Lugano
Morning call: 6.30 AM * Bags and Breakfast: 6.45 AM
Leave Zermatt: 7.45 AM * Leave Tasch: 8.00 AM
Another crack of dawn morning call, and the bags were out in short order. We took the lift down to the breakfast room, to find the hallway dark and the room itself still closed. So up again to the lobby, where we said hello to Elmar and Ueli as we settled down to wait. The rest of the group trickled in, and we were about 80% assembled before the breakfast room opened at 7.00 AM. The parents and I managed to make a good breakfast of it, and were among the first seven people to take the minibus down to the waiting coach in Tasch.
We left Tasch just a few minutes off the projected time of 8.00 AM, pretty good time for moving 40 people down a mountain road. The weather was turning overcast, and as the sun climbed over the horizon, it was noted that it was getting hazy on the mountains as we moved towards our next stop. I managed to barely stay awake during the recital of the admin details and the day's itinerary - half of me was still snuggled under the duvet back in the hotel - and by the time Ueli had the bus descending onto the highway, I gave up trying to stay awake.
Woke up feeling refreshed well before the rest stop, though. No inspections at the Swiss-Italian border crossings. I thought of the money Ma and I spent for our visa fees and had to agree with Elmar's comment that if you had all your documentation handy, the officials seldom asked to see them. But if you took a chance and didn't have even *one* piece of paper...that would be the time you would be stuck explaining things to the border patrols.
Once we were over the Italian border, there was a subtle shift in the personalities of our driver and TD. Ueli actually got to use the horn on the bus a few times! The best part was watching Elmar switching on “Italian mode” while coordinating with his contact for the Isola Bella tour; gone was his normal cool and efficient conversation, instead came rapid-fire Italian that could be clearly heard towards the back of the bus. :) Even his body language changed - he was actually standing in the jump seat and all but gesturing with his hands as he assured his contact that we were definitely on our way and would arrive at the designated meeting point in a matter of minutes, si, bene, ciao! :D
By 11.30 AM, we'd pulled into the destination town for the Isola Bella tour, and all those going were dropped off at the boat landing for the trip. It was good to know that those heading to lunch in Stresa (read: my parents) would be under Ueli's care, that he'd be pointing out places to go once they were there.
Getting on the boat was fun. It didn't tie up to the dock! Basically, it sounded as though it grounded itself on something underwater to hold itself steady. The sky continued slightly hazy and overcast, which was fine by me, since the weather was much warmer now. We passed by the Fisherman's Island, and Isola Madre (sort of like a Dower House island) before landing at Isola Bella. Watching the traffic of small ferry boats surrounding the docks was fascinating - and once again, we didn't tie up to the dock. Our landing was cushioned by used rubber tires tied to either side of the dock, and the Captain and Elmar gave everyone a hand out of the boat.
Crowds galore at Isola Bella, which did not take away from the interesting view. We were brought around the corner of the palace into a small courtyard, where we were given our call times and directions along the main street, where there was a little street market in progress. Elmar steered us into a little cafe that (thank heavens!) took Swiss francs, and would give us free use of the washrooms in the restaurant across the street - all we had to do was say we were cafe customers.
We were waited on by someone who I think was the proprietor of the establishment. Quite a bit of good-natured banter while he took our orders, and in my case, lunch consisted of white sausages with sweet mustard. Good stuff, and filled me up nicely.
I had a small adventure in the washrooms - the ladies were allowed to use the gents' washroom if no one else was there, which is pretty standard practice. Thing is, when it came time to unlock the door, I got a little rattled and forgot which way and how many times to turn the lock to get the door open! So I was stuck for about three very *long* minutes in there before I got out. Am pretty sure that had there been any, heat sensors would have registered the fire in my face from at least twenty feet. You can bet I got out of there very, very fast.
Decided to follow the street market all the way to its end. Lots of pretty products - pashminas, souvenirs, jewelry and leather goods. I ended up with a pair of mosaic earrings. Then I decided to pay my respects to the church whose bells I had heard tolling noontime - which is also the afternoon Angelus hour back home. I was promptly impressed by the busts of the four archsbishops atop the main altar, and the glass-encased figure beneath it. Turns out that the figure was not the real body of the patron saint, who is interred in Rome, but a replica.
It was a little like meeting old friends, looking around the place and recognizing the images of St. Francis of Assisi, St. Therese of Lisieux, and a lovely image of Our Lady of the Brown Scapular - naturally, many photos were taken, from ceiling to floor. Prayers were said, as well, and a candle lit, as is my usual custom when visiting churches.
By 1.30 PM we were all assembled for our tour of Isola Bella. Elmar had explained that he would be taking us on a tour of the gardens, and then would hand us over to the resident palace guide for a tour of the interior. Those gardens were fantastic - what a pity we didn’t have all the time in the world to linger and take those stairs at more leisure! Some of the plants were over a thousand years old - like the cork tree and the olive tree that were singled out for special notice. Oh, and I mustn't forget to mention the white peacock family that was strolling through the garden!
There's also a huge structure dominating the formal garden - like a movie set backdrop, with fountains and classical statues. Awesome stuff. Thanks to the slight humidity, I was a bit sweaty after climbing the stairs of that structure, but the view from the rear is worth the climb - it stretches out over the expanse of Lake Maggiore on all sides. Perfect as a lookout point, where you can see the all the towns along the shoreline.
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